The new Autumn Winter 24 Academy collection has arrived.
The winter Blanc collection from Vidal Sassoon completes the trilogy for 2024 following the spring 24 release of Rouge and summer collection Noir. All of the inspirations for the collections this year have been very eclectic. From the scarlet saturated pre-Raphaelite clouds of curls for Rouge, then the Victorian gothic fantasy of Noir, the research has taken the creative team to some unexpected places.
Following on from those, the Blanc collection is inspired by some key focuses, in the fashion world, the work of fashion designers Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela as well as the Japanese duo of Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo. Their sometimes functional, romantic, slightly surreal take on fashion design has been a big influence on the styling of the collection which, as the title suggests relies heavily on a sheer silhouette of white and ivory, with crystal embellishments. The world of photography also plays a part, in particular the work of Italian image maker Paolo Roversi, who creates beautiful, painterly portraits with the use of light painting. In the art world, the modular work of Sol LeWitt, the white on white paintings of Robert Rauschenberg and minimalist architectural style even modern restrained jazz composers all have their role in creating a mood in this most ethereal Vidal Sassoon collection.
CUTTING TECHNIQUE
The cutting techniques for the collection utilise all of the modern methods that have been developed by the team over the last decade. Reverse layering, hidden panels, invisible disconnection, all have their role in creating a series of images whose construction is invisible and totally suited to the mood of the wearer. Length and texture are each incorporated in different ways, either extravagantly long and lustrous or in a cloud of curls. Spikes and gently ruffled elements feature to distort and twist the silhouettes in innovative, fresh ways.
COLOUR TECHNIQUE
Naturally, the colour tones for Blanc are muted and restrained but not without innovation and interest. As always, the geometric nature of the application belies the fluidity of the finished result. Violet and lavender provide the tonal qualities that underpin the overall lightness of the shades. Asymmetrical geometric bands, reminiscent of the repetitive structural work of Donald Judd or the chiaroscuro effects of Japanese architect Tadao Ando, create light and shade. The use of classic colour techniques and colour choice providing a sense of cleanliness and weightlessness to the shapes.